We’re going to kind of get into that when we get to troubleshooting all right so next what we want to talk about is the sequence of operation this is one of the most or the most important thing you can remember whenever you’re whenever you’re dealing with troubleshooting if you understand the sequence of operation you can work on the water heater because you know what happens next usually if it didn’t get to that point in a sequence of operation you take a step back and you usually find that correct so it’s in the owner’s manual.
I would learn every sequence of operation on any water here that you’re working on so let’s talk about sequence of operation on this one I’m assuming the first thing that has to happen you got to have a call for heat yeah first thing that has to happen you have to have a call for heat meaning it needs to kick on and heat water and so first thing that happens it’s a call for heat and then the next thing that happens is that the control valve which is like a computer it checks for the proper positioning of certain switches okay which one is your air pressure switch or blower approver switch the other is to vent limit switch yeah and those two are tied together so it’s just looking at that circuit correct it’s looking at the circuit to make sure that proves open to make sure no one’s bypassing or anything and then after that it energizes the blower.
So the blower should start and then the pressure switch to close on a falling pressure okay and your limit switch is normally closed so it’s already closed okay but once that happens once the switch is closes the heater starts ignition sequence which means the igniter is going to warm up okay and then it will warm up for about 17 seconds and then the next thing that’s going to happen is the gas valve is going to open up and when the gas valve opens up it dumps gas into the the combustion chamber and then you have about four seconds to see the flame it likes the burner it likes the burner it has four seconds to see the flame once it sees the flame then it just starts heating the water it’s going once it proves to flame it’s going to heat water unless it loses the flame or switch opens or something like that okay and then it’ll come up to temperature then the burner then goes off your blowers going to continue to run for a little while to get the the combustion product out and then the water heater goes into standby so one more time real quick so you have a call for heat the first thing that and this happens very quickly the gas valve checks to make sure that the blower approver and the high vent temperature switch are in its correct state.
I mean zablo proven switch is going to be open the the high temperature switch will be closed once it sees that it kicks on the blower the blower the pressure from the blower then closes that blower proving switch that makes that complete circuit once it sees the circuit then the the igniter will then warm up for 17 seconds then once it reaches 17 seconds the gas valve opens up we dump gas into the burner chamber we light the burner we have four seconds to see that flame once we see the flame we start heating the water you would come up to temperature the gas goes off the vent the blower continues to run for a few seconds and then it goes into standby and correct and anywhere it stops in that sequence of operation that’s when you’re going to display a code yes that’s when we’re going to get a status light or air light saying something from it’s funny you should mention that because that’s what I want to talk about next is is troubleshooting and and really you know understanding the sequence is going to help you with troubleshooting and what we’re going to talk really about today is about what you see most of the time whenever you’re working on water heaters about about 80 80 80 to 5% of the time you’re going to see around three different things sometimes and it could be on new installs it could be in there for a little while but but really we’ve got call centers here and we take a lot of calls on all of our products.
So we have an understanding what’s going on in the field and really it boils down to three things what we’re going to talk about today and this this this is true for both heaters for the older style and the new styles so the first one we’re going to talk about is is an error code three it’s a three blinking lights it’s going to be a three flash on the Honeywell controller or on the intel event get one so it’s going to be a three flash on the Honeywell controller but on the intellivent-asv warm light lit up or the vacation light the triangle and the C light okay both of these codes whichever way it’s delivered to you whether it’s Honeywell or this it’s telling you that the air pressure switch didn’t close okay so the heater did not go on with the sequence in the sequence of operation to heat water anything gets stuck at that point so that means that we’re at the point when the blower is supposed to kick on and close the pressure switch it never saw that correct correct it never saw the pressure switch close which it proved open it just did not close okay and so first thing you always check for and this is where the heaters differ just slightly okay alright first thing you want to check to see is if the blower motors running all right on an Intel event the older-style valve the blower should be running continuously.
If it’s not running you have another problem on this heater it’s not going to be running because what when this heater finally on the Honeywell and it finally codes out on this code and allow the blower to run for thirty seconds and then it kicks it off okay and so first thing you want to check for is if the blower motor is running if it’s Honeywell cycle power off turn it back on see if the blower starts on the intellivent-asv it running okay and so that’s the first thing that you okay so I come up there I turn it off turn it back on and and on a Honeywell I’m going to be listening for that blower to kick on and in what if it doesn’t kick on if it doesn’t kick on the first thing I do is change the blower capacitor now Honeywell because capacitors can fell it’s very rare but the good thing about this is most of time fine electric motor doesn’t start it’s the capacitor right and so since this one separately replaceable replaced the capacitor okay so so if it if it doesn’t start I’m going to go ahead and replace that capacitor and then it should start now what if I walk up to it turn it off and turn it back on and I’ve got an aerco three and so I turn it off turning back on the blower starts but I continue to get that code that three code well the first thing I like to do is simple visual checks right any time I’m troubleshooting a code where the air pressure switch is not you know closing as it’s supposed to so I I check stuff visually first thing I check is my sensing tube okay make sure my sensing tubes hooked up right there’s we hooked up on both sides.
I make sure I don’t see any damage to any wiring which is kind of hard to see on the newer units they’re all the wirings and closed in here shouldn’t be a problem but I like to double check it so I check the wiring check the tube next thing is one of the most important things I check the venting to make sure the heater is vented prop right per the manuals so make sure your distances between elbows is right if it states that there has to be a certain distance make sure your equivalent length is correct because a lot of people forget that elbows count as feet right right in a lot of cases a 90-degree elbow if it’s a a just a 90 could count as five feet a 45 counts as two and a half feet and so if you can only say you could only run this heater twenty feet but use one ninety that means you can use 15 feet of straight pipes some people think well I can use twenty feet of pipe then the ninety that’s not the case and we’re not close to switch okay and always just a wire checking the venting also make sure you’re right using the right termination screen on this one or at least the right termination okay is there any way to check I mean because in some cases it could be the switch itself it could be the switch itself so usually while recommend after everything checks out and I’m sure my venting is clear that there’s nothing in it I’m sure it’s within spec per the manual I kind of keep it simple next thing.