Vent Water Heaters Maintenance

We’re going to kind of get into that  when we get to troubleshooting all right  so next what we want to talk about is  the sequence of operation this is one of  the most or the most important thing you  can remember whenever you’re whenever  you’re dealing with troubleshooting if  you understand the sequence of operation  you can work on the water heater because  you know what happens next  usually if it didn’t get to that point  in a sequence of operation you take a  step back and you usually find that  correct so it’s in the owner’s manual.

I  would learn every sequence of operation  on any water here that you’re working on  so let’s talk about sequence of  operation on this one I’m assuming the  first thing that has to happen you got  to have a call for heat yeah first thing  that has to happen you have to have a  call for heat meaning it needs to kick  on and heat water and so first thing  that happens it’s a call for heat and  then the next thing that happens is that  the control valve which is like a  computer it checks for the proper  positioning of certain switches okay  which one is your air pressure switch or  blower approver switch the other is to  vent limit switch yeah and those two are  tied together so it’s just looking at  that circuit correct it’s looking at the  circuit to make sure that proves open to  make sure no one’s bypassing or anything  and then after that it energizes the  blower.

So the blower should start and  then the pressure switch to close on a  falling pressure okay and your limit  switch is normally closed so it’s  already closed okay but once that  happens once the switch is closes the  heater starts ignition sequence which  means the igniter is going to warm up  okay and then it will warm up for about  17 seconds and then the next thing  that’s going to happen is the gas valve  is going to open up and when the gas  valve opens up it dumps gas into the the  combustion chamber and then you have  about four seconds to see the flame it  likes the burner  it likes the burner it has four seconds  to see the flame once it sees the flame  then it just starts heating the water  it’s going once it proves to flame it’s  going to heat water unless it loses the  flame or switch opens or something like  that okay and then it’ll come up to  temperature then the burner then goes  off your blowers going to continue to  run for a little while to get the the  combustion product out and then the  water heater goes into standby so one  more time real quick so you have a call  for heat the first thing that and this  happens very quickly the gas valve  checks to make sure that the blower  approver and the high vent temperature  switch are in its correct state.

I mean zablo proven switch is going to  be open the the high temperature switch  will be closed once it sees that it  kicks on the blower the blower the  pressure from the blower then closes  that blower proving switch that makes  that complete circuit once it sees the  circuit then the the igniter will then  warm up for 17 seconds then once it  reaches 17 seconds the gas valve opens  up we dump gas into the burner chamber  we light the burner we have four seconds  to see that flame once we see the flame  we start heating the water you would  come up to temperature the gas goes off  the vent the blower continues to run for  a few seconds and then it goes into  standby and correct and anywhere it  stops in that sequence of operation  that’s when you’re going to display a  code yes that’s when we’re going to get  a status light or air light saying  something from it’s funny you should  mention that because that’s what I want  to talk about next is is troubleshooting  and and really you know understanding  the sequence is going to help you with  troubleshooting and what we’re going to  talk really about today is about what  you see most of the time whenever you’re  working on water heaters about about 80  80 80 to 5% of the time you’re going to  see around three different things  sometimes and it could be on new  installs it could be in there for a  little while but but really we’ve got  call centers here and we take a lot of  calls on all of our products.

So we have  an understanding what’s going on in the  field and really it boils down to three  things what we’re going to talk about  today and this this this is true for  both heaters for the older style and the  new styles  so the first one we’re going to talk  about is is an error code three  it’s a three blinking lights it’s going  to be a three flash on the Honeywell  controller or on the intel event get one  so it’s going to be a three flash on the  Honeywell controller but on the  intellivent-asv warm light lit up or the  vacation light the triangle and the C  light okay  both of these codes whichever way it’s  delivered to you whether it’s Honeywell  or this it’s telling you that the air  pressure switch didn’t close okay so the  heater did not go on with the sequence  in the sequence of operation to heat  water anything gets stuck at that point  so that means that we’re at the point  when the blower is supposed to kick on  and close the pressure switch it never  saw that correct correct it never saw  the pressure switch close which it  proved open it just did not close okay  and so first thing you always check for  and this is where the heaters differ  just slightly okay alright first thing  you want to check to see is if the  blower motors running  all right on an Intel event the  older-style valve the blower should be  running continuously.

If it’s not running  you have another problem on this heater  it’s not going to be running because  what when this heater finally on the  Honeywell and it finally codes out on  this code and allow the blower to run  for thirty seconds and then it kicks it  off okay and so first thing you want to  check for is if the blower motor is  running if it’s Honeywell cycle power  off turn it back on see if the blower  starts on the intellivent-asv it running  okay and so that’s the first thing that  you okay so I come up there I turn it  off turn it back on and and on a  Honeywell I’m going to be listening for  that blower to kick on and in what if it  doesn’t kick on if it doesn’t kick on  the first thing I do is change the  blower capacitor now Honeywell because  capacitors can fell it’s very rare but  the good thing about this is most of  time fine electric motor doesn’t start  it’s the capacitor right and so since  this one separately replaceable replaced  the capacitor okay so so if it if it  doesn’t start I’m going to go ahead and  replace that capacitor and then it  should start now what if I walk up to it  turn it off and turn it back on  and I’ve got an aerco three and so I  turn it off turning back on the blower  starts but I continue to get that code  that three code well the first thing I  like to do is simple visual checks right  any time I’m troubleshooting a code  where the air pressure switch is not you  know closing as it’s supposed to so I I  check stuff visually first thing I check  is my sensing tube okay make sure my  sensing tubes hooked up right there’s we  hooked up on both sides.

I make sure I  don’t see any damage to any wiring which  is kind of hard to see on the newer  units they’re all the wirings and closed  in here shouldn’t be a problem but I  like to double check it so I check the  wiring check the tube next thing is one  of the most important things I check the  venting to make sure the heater is  vented prop right per the manuals so  make sure your distances between elbows  is right if it states that there has to  be a certain distance  make sure your equivalent length is  correct because a lot of people forget  that elbows count as feet right right in  a lot of cases a 90-degree elbow if it’s  a a just a 90 could count as five feet a  45 counts as two and a half feet and so  if you can only say you could only run  this heater twenty feet but use one  ninety that means you can use 15 feet of  straight pipes some people think well I  can use twenty feet of pipe then the  ninety that’s not the case and we’re not  close to switch okay and always just a  wire checking the venting also make sure  you’re right using the right termination  screen on this one or at least the right  termination  okay is there any way to check I mean  because in some cases it could be the  switch itself it could be the switch  itself so usually while recommend after  everything checks out and I’m sure my  venting is clear that there’s nothing in  it  I’m sure it’s within spec per the manual  I kind of keep it simple next thing.

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